5150/6505 Hater No More!

[stratotone]

I have been playing 5150's for 8 years and he speaks the truth - they respond very well to tube changes/differences and the best part of a 5150 is the application of the volume knob. The amplifier really wakes up past 3. The bias mod is essential just for proper operation of the amplifier since it is class AB biased. The bias modification should be done regardless as you will see much improvement in cleans and more headroom for high gain territory in terms of low end response and top end detail.

Bias has nothing to do with headroom and absolutely everything to do with proper operation of a class AB biased amplifier.

 

[NinjaRaf]

I've found that Eminence Legend V12s are the best speakers with a 5150. They stay loud, tight and clear, but they tame the sometimes fizzy high end of the 5150.

As far as the bias mod goes, I actually do NOT like the 5150 with the bias mod done. I did one, biased it up, and ended up dropping the bias back down as low as it would go. Every one swears by the bias mod, but I say fuck that shit. Leave that amp stock.

 

[MississippiMetal]

I have been playing 5150's for 8 years and he speaks the truth - they respond very well to tube changes/differences and the best part of a 5150 is the application of the volume knob. The amplifier really wakes up past 3. The bias mod is essential just for proper operation of the amplifier since it is class AB biased. The bias modification should be done regardless as you will see much improvement in cleans and more headroom for high gain territory in terms of low end response and top end detail.

Bias has nothing to do with headroom and absolutely everything to do with proper operation of a class AB biased amplifier.

One of several examples why I'm not getting into it any further with this cat. It's playing chess with someone who's playing by his own rules.

 

[glpg80]

I have been playing 5150's for 8 years and he speaks the truth - they respond very well to tube changes/differences and the best part of a 5150 is the application of the volume knob. The amplifier really wakes up past 3. The bias mod is essential just for proper operation of the amplifier since it is class AB biased. The bias modification should be done regardless as you will see much improvement in cleans and more headroom for high gain territory in terms of low end response and top end detail.

Bias has nothing to do with headroom and absolutely everything to do with proper operation of a class AB biased amplifier.

One of several examples why I'm not getting into it any further with this cat. It's playing chess with someone who's playing by his own rules.

You bias the amplifier out of crossover distortion which helps with signal clarity, better high end headroom meaning no artifacts of distortion using the presence knob, and better low end response. That is the reason you bias an amplifier. Not the same as headroom in regards to the tube itself which bias has nothing to do with. Don't try to read into your own misunderstandings and pass them off as mine. I understand how they work to a T and have reasonings behind every answer I have given. Nice try

 

[stratotone]

I have been playing 5150's for 8 years and he speaks the truth - they respond very well to tube changes/differences and the best part of a 5150 is the application of the volume knob. The amplifier really wakes up past 3. The bias mod is essential just for proper operation of the amplifier since it is class AB biased. The bias modification should be done regardless as you will see much improvement in cleans and more headroom for high gain territory in terms of low end response and top end detail.

Bias has nothing to do with headroom and absolutely everything to do with proper operation of a class AB biased amplifier.

One of several examples why I'm not getting into it any further with this cat. It's playing chess with someone who's playing by his own rules.

You bias the amplifier out of crossover distortion which helps with signal clarity, better high end headroom meaning no artifacts of distortion using the presence knob, and better low end response. That is the reason you bias an amplifier. Not the same as headroom in regards to the tube itself which bias has nothing to do with. Don't try to read into your own misunderstandings and pass them off as mine. I understand how they work to a T and have reasonings behind every answer I have given. Nice try

 

[MississippiMetal]

Whatever you say, Captain Backpedal.

 

[the4thlast1]

Haha this is getting silly now isnt it ? .... Anyways to my ears 5150s sound good biased cold. However if its VERY cold like say 10ma per tube they do get a bit fizzy and crisp. As far as the original 5150 model with no bias trim pot at all I would suggest ordering power tubes that are rated as "late breakup".

Im sure one of you amp nerds can correct me if Im wrong but the "late breakup" power tubes will have a higher milliamp draw early on. So with a fixed bias amp these can come in handy to get a warmer bias. You wouldnt have to do any mod or install a trim pot if you arent handy enough to do so, you would just buy different power tubes.

 

[Anonymous]

Haha this is getting silly now isnt it ? .... Anyways to my ears 5150s sound good biased cold. However if its VERY cold like say 10ma per tube they do get a bit fizzy and crisp. As far as the original 5150 model with no bias trim pot at all I would suggest ordering power tubes that are rated as "late breakup".

Im sure one of you amp nerds can correct me if Im wrong but the "late breakup" power tubes will have a higher milliamp draw early on. So with a fixed bias amp these can come in handy to get a warmer bias. You wouldnt have to do any mod or install a trim pot if you arent handy enough to do so, you would just buy different power tubes.

i ran late breakup groove tube 6L6 in mine and honestly, anything other than stage volume it's not something you'll notice verily.

over 4/5 on the posts....you'll start to notice the amp and output tubes sweating...it's unbearably loud though...IMHO, 5 on the post is nearly the same as 10 on the post....not much taper between. theres a big long post about it and some technical breakdown that starts here:

http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/back ... ead-3.html

then a new thread starts here (cause the first one was about 5150 mods).

http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/back ... ssion.html


interesting threads.

 

[harddriver]

So is there a set minimum/maximum range of specific current draw for a set of 6L6's specifically called for by peavey?

I imagine there has to be an approved range for the power tubes drawing the appropriate amount of current used in the fixed amp bias like Mesa Boogie does with their tubes and amps.

Early Breakup
Average Breakup
Late Breakup

What do most people use a guideline when retubing the 5150/6505?

I doubt I will do a bias mod as I kind of like the tone I'm hearing now, who knows maybe later I'll start to tinker with it. It's nice to have a little variety to all my modded Marshall tones, I'm loving the shear brutality of the 6505 and the insane gain amounts.

As of right now I don't object to the tone quality of Ruby 6L6's that came with the amp from the factory and the preamp tubes seem well suited to it as well.

What preamp tubes are used from the factory? JJ or 8th or 8th generation Shuguang(chinese)?

 

[the4thlast1]

I bought a brand new 6505+ about 6 months ago and it came with JJ's in all preamp positions except for phase inverter and effects loop which was chinese I believe. It came with Ruby 6L6s in the power section

JJ preamp tubes sound best in all the 5150s IMO including the new Fender version.... As far as power tubes go my favorites are Sovtek 6L6 wxt+, SED's and the Rubys...I dont have a regular 6505 atm but a friend of mine loves the SED's in it and he tried a bunch of tubes.