Adam Jones say its the guitar not the guitarist.

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FourT6and2":1iginitk said:
sutepaj":1iginitk said:
I've played quite a few Silverbursts in my time and I think just about every one of them was a dog. Heavy as shit and nothing remarkable going on at all.

Wow, that's awesome! Tell me more!


What do you want to know?
 
sutepaj":32wo8zcn said:
FourT6and2":32wo8zcn said:
sutepaj":32wo8zcn said:
I've played quite a few Silverbursts in my time and I think just about every one of them was a dog. Heavy as shit and nothing remarkable going on at all.

Wow, that's awesome! Tell me more!


What do you want to know?

Do you think it's the color that makes them so bad? I think it's the color. If they weren't so ugly, I think I'd like them more. Because every silverburst I've played has also been pretty awful. But, I've played some black ones and some of those older white ones that were waaaaay better. The only thing I can think of that was different between all of those customs was the color. So, it MUST be something to do with the paint on those silverbursts!
 
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.
 
sutepaj":2gwquejx said:
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.

lol yeah I know. I was being sarcastic. :lol: :LOL: Point is, Silverburst or not, every guitar is going to be different (as you've just said). So, saying every silverburst you've played has been bad makes as little sense as saying every black guitar is bad or every white guitar is bad. It's just the luck of the draw. There's nothing special about the Silverbursts. They're the same as every other Custom from the same time period. Just a different color! :) And something like weight is personal preference. Some people like "boat anchors."

If you're looking for a light-weight, "classic" burst clone. Obviously a Norlin-era Custom isn't going to get your nips hard. ;)

It would be equally funny if I went into a thread about Black LP Customs and proclaimed "Every black Les Paul I've played has been awful!" Maybe it's just me, though...
 
FourT6and2":2ogx8cw9 said:
sutepaj":2ogx8cw9 said:
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.

lol yeah I know. I was being sarcastic. :lol: :LOL: Point is, Silverburst or not, every guitar is going to be different (as you've just said). So, saying every silverburst you've played has been bad makes as little sense as saying every black guitar is bad or every white guitar is bad. It's just the luck of the draw. There's nothing special about the Silverbursts. They're the same as every other Custom from the same time period. Just a different color! :) And something like weight is personal preference. Some people like "boat anchors."

If you're looking for a light-weight, "classic" burst clone. Obviously a Norlin-era Custom isn't going to get your nips hard. ;)

It would be equally funny if I went into a thread about Black LP Customs and proclaimed "Every black Les Paul I've played has been awful!" Maybe it's just me, though...

Personally I dig the heftier Lesters... And I'm always keeping my eyes open for a near-mint '79 to '81 stock Silverburst - JUST so I can play it, hold it, and hear it.

Just my 2 cents,
V.
 
Ventura":2qd23q1u said:
FourT6and2":2qd23q1u said:
sutepaj":2qd23q1u said:
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.

lol yeah I know. I was being sarcastic. :lol: :LOL: Point is, Silverburst or not, every guitar is going to be different (as you've just said). So, saying every silverburst you've played has been bad makes as little sense as saying every black guitar is bad or every white guitar is bad. It's just the luck of the draw. There's nothing special about the Silverbursts. They're the same as every other Custom from the same time period. Just a different color! :) And something like weight is personal preference. Some people like "boat anchors."

If you're looking for a light-weight, "classic" burst clone. Obviously a Norlin-era Custom isn't going to get your nips hard. ;)

It would be equally funny if I went into a thread about Black LP Customs and proclaimed "Every black Les Paul I've played has been awful!" Maybe it's just me, though...

Personally I dig the heftier Lesters... And I'm always keeping my eyes open for a near-mint '79 to '81 stock Silverburst - JUST so I can play it, hold it, and hear it.

Just my 2 cents,
V.

Yeah, me too. :)
 
HEY!!!! You already scored a near dead-mint '79 Silverburst ya bugger!! Back off :gethim:

V. :hys:
 
Ventura":1i648e57 said:
HEY!!!! You already scored a near dead-mint '79 Silverburst ya bugger!! Back off :gethim:

V. :hys:

They're all mine. MINE!
 
FourT6and2":1oejfxs8 said:
Dale B":1oejfxs8 said:
FourT6and2":1oejfxs8 said:
Dale B":1oejfxs8 said:
Do you have your channels internally jumped in your Super Lead? I have a JCM 800 2203x that I had set up like his amp. I had the OT changed to a Marstran. It sounds bad ass!

No, I jump the channels with a cable. I made a few simple changes to the circuit to get the sound I want. Nothing you wouldn't find in stock 1959's from various years. I just threw 'em all into one amp.

.68 presence cap, .68 cathode caps in V1 and V2, .022 V1b bypass cap, 100k NFB on 4ohm tap and a 2" OT transformer.


Mine is the 1.5" C1998 OT, but everything else is the same spec as yours. I bought a board from Sozo and put that in the amp with all of the changes. It sounds bad ass! I did put the LarMar PPIMV on the amp and my channels are jumped internally.

How much juice is your PT dishing out on the power tubes?

Nice, any pics?

I'm running 500V on the plates without tubes and anywhere from 470-490 with tubes, depending on the tube brand/type current draw. The JJ's I had in there before were reading 480V at the plates. But the Winged C's I have in there now are drawing less current for some reason. About 470.

I don't have any gut shots or anything like that right now. I'll shoot you some in a week or two if you want to see. Mine runs about 465 with tubes. I'm running Ruby EL34B-STR's right now, but I'm fixing to swap over to some NOS Tesla EL34's I've been hoarding for a while.

Have you tried swapping the presence cap back to a .1 and comparing it with the .68? I'm going to tinker around with that some.
 
Dale B":pz0w8d6x said:
FourT6and2":pz0w8d6x said:
Dale B":pz0w8d6x said:
FourT6and2":pz0w8d6x said:
Dale B":pz0w8d6x said:
Do you have your channels internally jumped in your Super Lead? I have a JCM 800 2203x that I had set up like his amp. I had the OT changed to a Marstran. It sounds bad ass!

No, I jump the channels with a cable. I made a few simple changes to the circuit to get the sound I want. Nothing you wouldn't find in stock 1959's from various years. I just threw 'em all into one amp.

.68 presence cap, .68 cathode caps in V1 and V2, .022 V1b bypass cap, 100k NFB on 4ohm tap and a 2" OT transformer.


Mine is the 1.5" C1998 OT, but everything else is the same spec as yours. I bought a board from Sozo and put that in the amp with all of the changes. It sounds bad ass! I did put the LarMar PPIMV on the amp and my channels are jumped internally.

How much juice is your PT dishing out on the power tubes?

Nice, any pics?

I'm running 500V on the plates without tubes and anywhere from 470-490 with tubes, depending on the tube brand/type current draw. The JJ's I had in there before were reading 480V at the plates. But the Winged C's I have in there now are drawing less current for some reason. About 470.

I don't have any gut shots or anything like that right now. I'll shoot you some in a week or two if you want to see. Mine runs about 465 with tubes. I'm running Ruby EL34B-STR's right now, but I'm fixing to swap over to some NOS Tesla EL34's I've been hoarding for a while.

Have you tried swapping the presence cap back to a .1 and comparing it with the .68? I'm going to tinker around with that some.

Well I had the .1 presence in originally. But I swapped it for the .68. Didn't notice a huge difference, but I didn't have much time with the amp before making the change. I'm also thinking about putting the 0.0022 coupling cap back in V1. Right now, I have the bass at zero as there's a lot of low-end. Maybe going back to the lead-spec plate caps in V1 will get me some more use out of the bass control. I don't mind having the bass at zero, as I use the normal channel (when jumped) to add low-end.
 
FourT6and2":rlc1tkzt said:
sutepaj":rlc1tkzt said:
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.

lol yeah I know. I was being sarcastic. :lol: :LOL: Point is, Silverburst or not, every guitar is going to be different (as you've just said). So, saying every silverburst you've played has been bad makes as little sense as saying every black guitar is bad or every white guitar is bad. It's just the luck of the draw. There's nothing special about the Silverbursts. They're the same as every other Custom from the same time period. Just a different color! :) And something like weight is personal preference. Some people like "boat anchors."

If you're looking for a light-weight, "classic" burst clone. Obviously a Norlin-era Custom isn't going to get your nips hard. ;)

It would be equally funny if I went into a thread about Black LP Customs and proclaimed "Every black Les Paul I've played has been awful!" Maybe it's just me, though...

Okay, let me restate my opinion. Most late 70's/early 80's era Les Paul's I have played, including the LP Custom Silverbursts are very heavy and I believe sustain less, and are less "toneful" than some of their previous and post year counterparts.
 
sutepaj":23lfbr20 said:
FourT6and2":23lfbr20 said:
sutepaj":23lfbr20 said:
I don't think the paint has much, if anything to do with it. I think there were just more "bad" guitars coming out in those years. In fact, I think it's pretty similar to what is going on now with Gibson. At that time, they were more focused on re-invention than making a classic product. In the late 80's/early 90's it seems like they really turned it around again. Right now, Gibson is focused more on Robot guitars and gimmicks. I'm sure this will eventually change again.

Don't get me wrong though, every era has "good" guitars and "bad" guitars and there are so many factors involved.

lol yeah I know. I was being sarcastic. :lol: :LOL: Point is, Silverburst or not, every guitar is going to be different (as you've just said). So, saying every silverburst you've played has been bad makes as little sense as saying every black guitar is bad or every white guitar is bad. It's just the luck of the draw. There's nothing special about the Silverbursts. They're the same as every other Custom from the same time period. Just a different color! :) And something like weight is personal preference. Some people like "boat anchors."

If you're looking for a light-weight, "classic" burst clone. Obviously a Norlin-era Custom isn't going to get your nips hard. ;)

It would be equally funny if I went into a thread about Black LP Customs and proclaimed "Every black Les Paul I've played has been awful!" Maybe it's just me, though...

Okay, let me restate my opinion. Most late 70's/early 80's era Les Paul's I have played, including the LP Custom Silverbursts are very heavy and I believe sustain less, and are less "toneful" than some of their previous and post year counterparts.

That's cool. I like the LP's from that time-period for a number of reasons: Heavy. I like the weight. Neck volute. Solid bodies, no "pancake" or laminated bodies. No weight-relief or chambering. Maple necks. Lower-value pots = darker tone. All those things add up to a better guitar (for me) than previous years or the later models. Really comes down to what you need for the music you play. I play a lot of 90's hard rock and metal. And for that stuff, late 70's, early 80's Norlin-era LP Customs are perfect. As long as the guitar has no intonation or other issues like that, then it's all good! :)

And looking at the gear you use, it's quite clear why you wouldn't like these type of guitars. Am I right that you play a Tele through a Bassman? I'm sure you've used other amps. But, it's just an observation that helps understand where you're coming from. I'm sure you'd go :confused: if I said "I don't like Telecasters because they aren't good for hard rock and metal. They're too light, have single-coils, the scale-length is all wrong, and they're too bright! Just awful!"

Right tool for the job is what it comes down to. :thumbsup:

Maybe I'm wrong, though.
 
You can really hear his Marshall amp in that clip, really well. Love it.
 
Mr. Willy":2yskvg5o said:
drucifer":2yskvg5o said:
danyeo":2yskvg5o said:
What's the amp on the right from :50 - 1:18 ?

It lookie like-a chrome chassis recto to me.

That was around the time he was using his '76 Marshall Super Bass and a 2 channel Dual Recto. He used that set up on Aenema. My favorite tone from him. :thumbsup:

I like the straight Super Bass tone on Undertow the best, then Lateralus.

He comes off like a bit of a prick in the vid, but I'm sure he's a nice enough guy.
 
cibyl":frb82987 said:
Mr. Willy":frb82987 said:
drucifer":frb82987 said:
danyeo":frb82987 said:
What's the amp on the right from :50 - 1:18 ?

It lookie like-a chrome chassis recto to me.

That was around the time he was using his '76 Marshall Super Bass and a 2 channel Dual Recto. He used that set up on Aenema. My favorite tone from him. :thumbsup:

I like the straight Super Bass tone on Undertow the best, then Lateralus.

He comes off like a bit of a prick in the vid, but I'm sure he's a nice enough guy.

Yeah, I agree. Undertow and Aenema tone are my favs. And he sounds like a jerk in that video. Also, remember it's not a Super Bass...
 
FourT6and2":3mzt7nre said:
Dale B":3mzt7nre said:
FourT6and2":3mzt7nre said:
Dale B":3mzt7nre said:
FourT6and2":3mzt7nre said:
Dale B":3mzt7nre said:
Do you have your channels internally jumped in your Super Lead? I have a JCM 800 2203x that I had set up like his amp. I had the OT changed to a Marstran. It sounds bad ass!

No, I jump the channels with a cable. I made a few simple changes to the circuit to get the sound I want. Nothing you wouldn't find in stock 1959's from various years. I just threw 'em all into one amp.

.68 presence cap, .68 cathode caps in V1 and V2, .022 V1b bypass cap, 100k NFB on 4ohm tap and a 2" OT transformer.


Mine is the 1.5" C1998 OT, but everything else is the same spec as yours. I bought a board from Sozo and put that in the amp with all of the changes. It sounds bad ass! I did put the LarMar PPIMV on the amp and my channels are jumped internally.

How much juice is your PT dishing out on the power tubes?

Nice, any pics?

I'm running 500V on the plates without tubes and anywhere from 470-490 with tubes, depending on the tube brand/type current draw. The JJ's I had in there before were reading 480V at the plates. But the Winged C's I have in there now are drawing less current for some reason. About 470.

I don't have any gut shots or anything like that right now. I'll shoot you some in a week or two if you want to see. Mine runs about 465 with tubes. I'm running Ruby EL34B-STR's right now, but I'm fixing to swap over to some NOS Tesla EL34's I've been hoarding for a while.

Have you tried swapping the presence cap back to a .1 and comparing it with the .68? I'm going to tinker around with that some.

Well I had the .1 presence in originally. But I swapped it for the .68. Didn't notice a huge difference, but I didn't have much time with the amp before making the change. I'm also thinking about putting the 0.0022 coupling cap back in V1. Right now, I have the bass at zero as there's a lot of low-end. Maybe going back to the lead-spec plate caps in V1 will get me some more use out of the bass control. I don't mind having the bass at zero, as I use the normal channel (when jumped) to add low-end.

I don't have that much low end coming through. My bass is fine when ran normally. I run the Dark Channel gain around 6 (of 10) and the Bright Channel around 5.

I could be backward here, but I think the .68 on the presence brings the mids and highs out a little more than the .1. I'm going to try a .68 on my Fargen Olde 800 to see what it will do.
 
Dale B":lj77gr7u said:
FourT6and2":lj77gr7u said:
Dale B":lj77gr7u said:
FourT6and2":lj77gr7u said:
Dale B":lj77gr7u said:
FourT6and2":lj77gr7u said:
Dale B":lj77gr7u said:
Do you have your channels internally jumped in your Super Lead? I have a JCM 800 2203x that I had set up like his amp. I had the OT changed to a Marstran. It sounds bad ass!

No, I jump the channels with a cable. I made a few simple changes to the circuit to get the sound I want. Nothing you wouldn't find in stock 1959's from various years. I just threw 'em all into one amp.

.68 presence cap, .68 cathode caps in V1 and V2, .022 V1b bypass cap, 100k NFB on 4ohm tap and a 2" OT transformer.


Mine is the 1.5" C1998 OT, but everything else is the same spec as yours. I bought a board from Sozo and put that in the amp with all of the changes. It sounds bad ass! I did put the LarMar PPIMV on the amp and my channels are jumped internally.

How much juice is your PT dishing out on the power tubes?

Nice, any pics?

I'm running 500V on the plates without tubes and anywhere from 470-490 with tubes, depending on the tube brand/type current draw. The JJ's I had in there before were reading 480V at the plates. But the Winged C's I have in there now are drawing less current for some reason. About 470.

I don't have any gut shots or anything like that right now. I'll shoot you some in a week or two if you want to see. Mine runs about 465 with tubes. I'm running Ruby EL34B-STR's right now, but I'm fixing to swap over to some NOS Tesla EL34's I've been hoarding for a while.

Have you tried swapping the presence cap back to a .1 and comparing it with the .68? I'm going to tinker around with that some.

Well I had the .1 presence in originally. But I swapped it for the .68. Didn't notice a huge difference, but I didn't have much time with the amp before making the change. I'm also thinking about putting the 0.0022 coupling cap back in V1. Right now, I have the bass at zero as there's a lot of low-end. Maybe going back to the lead-spec plate caps in V1 will get me some more use out of the bass control. I don't mind having the bass at zero, as I use the normal channel (when jumped) to add low-end.

I don't have that much low end coming through. My bass is fine when ran normally. I run the Dark Channel gain around 6 (of 10) and the Bright Channel around 5.

I could be backward here, but I think the .68 on the presence brings the mids and highs out a little more than the .1. I'm going to try a .68 on my Fargen Olde 800 to see what it will do.

Yeah, try it and see. :)
 
They all come off like adenoids in the full documentary. I want to get the whole thing up on YouTube, but I can't find the damn tape! Haven't seen it since I moved. I know it's around here somewhere.
 
CaseyCor":26p2tssy said:
They all come off like adenoids in the full documentary. I want to get the whole thing up on YouTube, but I can't find the damn tape! Haven't seen it since I moved. I know it's around here somewhere.

Damn. I hope you find it Casey.
 
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