Any of you play raw maple necks?

[Shreddy Mercury]

I may put some parts in my cart tomorrow on Reverb. I'll prolly pick a cool used MJT relic body (don't ever email them, they'll never stop bugging the shit out of you asking if you're ready to start your project). If I find a good price on an in stock Warmoth Strat neck, do I NEED to put some kind of finish on it? I know they say warranties are void without a finish on maple necks, but I don't have too have lacquer or anything. I may find a used neck made from wenge or some other wood that doesn't require a finish, but specifically curious about maple since the majority of necks is made from it.

 

[chumbucket]

Your fine if the neck is baked maple. They feel great.

 

[SoooRad]

my main guitar is a raw maple neck. Has been great for the last 14 years.

 

[VonBonfire]

I may put some parts in my cart tomorrow on Reverb. I'll prolly pick a cool used MJT relic body (don't ever email them, they'll never stop bugging the shit out of you asking if you're ready to start your project). If I find a good price on an in stock Warmoth Strat neck, do I NEED to put some kind of finish on it? I know they say warranties are void without a finish on maple necks, but I don't have too have lacquer or anything. I may find a used neck made from wenge or some other wood that doesn't require a finish, but specifically curious about maple since the majority of necks is made from it.

Hey Matt great to hear about your interest in a guitar build. Anyways this is Jake over at MJT, if you're ready to start your project I'd be happy to get your order going for you tonight, like, NOW.

 

[LPMojoGL]

I sanded down a birdseye maple neck to feel the way I wanted. Hit it with a few layers of Watco Danish when I got it where I liked it.
I'm woodtarded. Maybe it would've been fine, raw. But why chance it? The feel wasn't much different, and I didnt have to worry about moisture, instability, warping, grime buildup.

 

[Dave L]

I´m not sure I´ve ever had a raw raw neck, pretty sure they´ve been oiled in some capacity and it basically feels raw. Might be a good compromise.

 

[DanTravis62]

(don't ever email them, they'll never stop bugging the shit out of you asking if you're ready to start your project).

Dude holy shit. I emailed them asking for a quote on repainting and putting binding on an LP studio once

Not only did they never shut the fuck up about starting the project, they outright refused to do the binding and THEN had the unmitigated gall to keep fucking harassing me about the refin.

Like, fuck you dude, you refused to do the work, you don't get to harass me in email over and over about doing half of the work I wanted for the exorbitant prices you charge

I love their finishes, and they do great work, but I will only ever buy them used; dealing with them through email was one of the shittiest, most obnoxious experiences I've ever had - and I've done business with literally hundreds if not thousands of guitar related companies over the years.

 

[Anje]

I love the feel of unfinished (non-lacquered) necks, either designed that way from the start (ex: old Charvel) or worn-in like on old guitars, but they usually are at least oiled / protected in some way and not 100% "raw wood" I think. Even the old guitar well worn-in necks probably have some amount of base layer and/or pore filler / sealant left?

 

[Geo]

I just wipe on some Tried & True oil, same you would put on a cutting board.

It will seal the wood, make it look nice and you won't get dirt ingrained into it.

https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/

 

[Jccobb2]

Tung oil is an easy way to finish a raw neck too. Some steel wool is all that’s needed once it’s set up to make it smooth as glass.

 

[BeZo]

Tung oil on a raw maple neck will give you the look and feel of a raw neck with a good amount of protection. Tung oil has always been neutral.

 

[Lickmaker]

I've made a lot of raw maple necks. Usually with Rosewood or ebony boards. Always quartersawn. They have never come back to me with any issues.

 

[Scot]

I just wipe on some Tried & True oil, same you would put on a cutting board.

It will seal the wood, make it look nice and you won't get dirt ingrained into it.

Tung oil is an easy way to finish a raw neck too. Some steel wool is all that’s needed once it’s set up to make it smooth as glass.

Tung oil on a raw maple neck will give you the look and feel of a raw neck with a good amount of protection. Tung oil has always been neutral.

I can’t comment on an unfinished neck, but have done a fair amount of finishing / re-finishing and have a question. Geo - does the tried and true leave any waxy or pitch residue? Also, Tung Oil - how long to dry using thin coats - I’ve always thought that stuff stayed gummy? Over the yrs I’ve settled on boiled linseed and /or shellac for most things, but have always treated fretboards with a very light rub of boiled linseed..maybe once yr. Lemon oil is snake oil but I don’t think it’ll harm anything used sparingly.

And Shreddy M - sorry for the sidetrack - I asked those questions because I just don’t know and otherwise I'd advise that you buy a quart of boiled linseed from your local hardware store for about ten bucks because - that’s a lifetime supply - use it sparingly and let it dry overnight after stringing back-up. If Geo says the tried and true leaves a residual waxy coat - I’d be all over that. No real experience with Tung Oil and, personally, I’d advise against Tru-Oil. Good luck. I have a roasted Pl2 neck with a finish that def works and feels good, but it looks and feels like plastic, it’s the only gripe I have w/the guitar, but I’m not going to strip it.

 

[Lickmaker]

The best oil finish IMHO is Waterlox. Dries hard, feels silky.

 

[Geo]

I can’t comment on an unfinished neck, but have done a fair amount of finishing / re-finishing and have a question. Geo - does the tried and true leave any waxy or pitch residue? Also, Tung Oil - how long to dry using thin coats - I’ve always thought that stuff stayed gummy? Over the yrs I’ve settled on boiled linseed and /or shellac for most things, but have always treated fretboards with a very light rub of boiled linseed..maybe once yr. Lemon oil is snake oil but I don’t think it’ll harm anything used sparingly.

And Shreddy M - sorry for the sidetrack - I asked those questions because I just don’t know and otherwise I'd advise that you buy a quart of boiled linseed from your local hardware store for about ten bucks because - that’s a lifetime supply - use it sparingly and let it dry overnight after stringing back-up. If Geo says the tried and true leaves a residual waxy coat - I’d be all over that. No real experience with Tung Oil and, personally, I’d advise against Tru-Oil. Good luck. I have a roasted Pl2 neck with a finish that def works and feels good, but it looks and feels like plastic, it’s the only gripe I have w/the guitar, but I’m not going to strip it.
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Tried & True is the nicest and easiest I have used, no residue just silky smooth. I got turned on to them by Stewmac.

And to the OP, you really need to seal the raw maple so it doesn't absorb moisture.

 

[IHateRap]

Every spring I string up all the appropriate trees in my yard. Have to use coated because of weather considerations.

 

[Lickmaker]

And to the OP, you really need to seal the raw maple so it doesn't absorb moisture.

Respectfully disagree.....really, it depends on how stable the piece is. As I mentioned above, I've built about 100 raw maple necked guitars and shipped them out all over the world. The necks are all the same size (0.800" at the first fret), all quartered. Never a reported issue. Sure they will get discoloured and dirty from hand oils/sweat, to which I recommend a simple rub down with a 3M scotch-brite pad.

 

[Geo]

Respectfully disagree.....really, it depends on how stable the piece is. As I mentioned above, I've built about 100 raw maple necked guitars and shipped them out all over the world. The necks are all the same size (0.800" at the first fret), all quartered. Never a reported issue. Sure they will get discoloured and dirty from hand oils/sweat, to which I recommend a simple rub down with a 3M scotch-brite pad.

I hear what you are saying but why take the risk. I understand that maple is a very dense wood but I personally would have no idea if the wood is capable of absorbing moisture. Even roasted necks seem to absorb some of the Tried & True and it's pretty viscous.

 

[Lickmaker]

All wood is hygroscopic. When raw it will always try to equilibriate with the it's environment's relative humidity..... even when finished, albeit more slowly.
So in a sense it IS riskier to have a raw maple neck IF you let the guitar live in environmental extremes....ie. too dry or too humid or large swings between dry and humid. But over time hand oils/sweat do penetrate the maple and provide somewhat of a seal. Violin family instruments often have totally raw maple necks....instruments that have been around for hundreds of years.
The answer to "why take the risk" is simply that nothing else feels like raw maple....it's so silky and organic. any kind of oil changes that feel.

 

[Scot]

I live on the east coast and treat accordingly, but sparingly. I can attest that my (plastic coated) roasted strat neck is rock solid and never needs adjusting over the couple yrs I’ve had it.