4x12 Cab Questions????

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ashesofphoenix

ashesofphoenix

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So I think I'm gonna make an attempt at building my own Slanted 4x12 Cab. Has any one ever done this before that could give me some input/? and for everyone else:

Whats your favorite wood for a 4x12 cab to handle heavy distortion?
Whats the best Speaker type and configuration to match a 5150?
Maybe X pattern V30 - H30? :rock:
 
V30, and watch the mesa boogie cab building videos, they are pretty cool, I would think you should build a cab like a boogie, since thats what I liked with my peavey :thumbsup:

 
Thanks man!!! I was thinkin' Boogie, Orange, or Engle style cabs. I have a buddy who does custome metal work and I'm gonna see if he can make me a nasty looking grill for it when I get closer to the end.

Another question... does Tolex or whatever is outside the amp matter? Or can I do a stained hardwood look or custom paint?
 
I passed on a EHX hardwood stained cab back in the day for a stupid cheap price and I kick myself regularly over it. Sure it looked like furniture but it was cool and it sounded great. Depending on how you are going to use the cab should answer what you do with the outside. Tolex will help protect it from the rigors of gigging but stained wood will look nicer if you decide to roll it out in the living room. It's easier to convince your significant other that it looks nice next to the couch.
 
I am picking up a used mesa cab this weekend for $250 and it doesn't have any tolex. I am not sure what to do with it, is it hard to tolex a 4x12 cab yourself?
 
roadifier":32saz9wk said:
I am picking up a used mesa cab this weekend for $250 and it doesn't have any tolex. I am not sure what to do with it, is it hard to tolex a 4x12 cab yourself?

Its incredibly hard u should go pick it up and ship it to me for my bday haha jk :lol: :LOL: . Its not crazy hard to but it is pretty meticulous. Make good measurements and try to keep ur one seem on the bottom of the cab.

Personally Ive always wanted a hard wood cab that was stained. Everyone has tolex or some fabric on their cabs... I think it would look badass to do either custom paint or killer natural finish.
 
i've built a few cabs without a tablesaw.


my advice is not to try unless you have a tablesaw.


even with the right tools, it's still no bargain.


hit Craigslist and get a used cab.
 
ashesofphoenix":3k6umzo4 said:
roadifier":3k6umzo4 said:
I am picking up a used mesa cab this weekend for $250 and it doesn't have any tolex. I am not sure what to do with it, is it hard to tolex a 4x12 cab yourself?

Its incredibly hard u should go pick it up and ship it to me for my bday haha jk :lol: :LOL: . Its not crazy hard to but it is pretty meticulous. Make good measurements and try to keep ur one seem on the bottom of the cab.

Personally Ive always wanted a hard wood cab that was stained. Everyone has tolex or some fabric on their cabs... I think it would look badass to do either custom paint or killer natural finish.
:lol: :LOL: :lol: :LOL: Happy bday. I was thinking of staining the cab maybe, or just buying more mesa tolex and trying to do it myself... But i hate carpet covered cabs, looks weird and too 90's ish...
 
Capulin Overdrive":3nv7xa7n said:
i've built a few cabs without a tablesaw.


my advice is not to try unless you have a tablesaw.


even with the right tools, it's still no bargain.


hit Craigslist and get a used cab.
Agreed. I mean, unless you're DAMN good at wood work, joinery, and understanding the dynamics that go into a cab, they're far from just these "wooden boxes". I've done a lot of research as back in the day, I couldn't understand how on earth a wooden box with four holes would cost what it cost!?!? Fact is, manufacturers, the good ones, have really sized up the dynamics, and understood the best wood and joinery type to handle the - taaaa-daaaa - speakers. And then it's all about front load versus rear load. Then there's the baffle type. All this stuff may just fall into your lap on the first go round, but then it's the "worn in cabs sound better", and you may find that as yours gets worn in, it may start to sound horrible, or fall about, or hey, maybe sound better.

If you've got gobs of time to spare, than for sure, hit that shit. Go for it. But otherwise?? Time, effort and materials...man, I'd just go with a Port City or Mills Acoustics or the like.

Crazy as it sounds, there's more to 'em then just a box with 4 holes.

Peace,
V.
 
If you have the right tools, then I'd say go for it. But as has been said, without proper equipment you are better off just buying something.

I personally prefer the sound of hardwood cabs. But it takes a lot more skill(and money) to build that way. probably why you don't see the big manufacturers doing it, it's just not economical for them.

If you are going to build your own, make sure you put the effort into proper size, good joints, and the right wood.
 
I found a way I can re-tolex the mesa cab I am getting tomorrow, that will be easier to cut, and easy to apply. I can just do one side at a time and make my creases like mesa did. it Will be easier for a beginner like me, so I don't waste my money if I screw up with the tolex.
 
roadifier":1524nk0i said:
I found a way I can re-tolex the mesa cab I am getting tomorrow, that will be easier to cut, and easy to apply. I can just do one side at a time and make my creases like mesa did. it Will be easier for a beginner like me, so I don't waste my money if I screw up with the tolex.

Tolex is pretty easy to get the hang of, it's all about what glue you use(contact cement may give you problems since you need to have everything exact, once it sticks it's not coming apart). Corners are the hardest part, but if you take your time(and use a sharp razor blade) you should be ok.
 
What do you use as tolex adhesive that works well? I heard the mojotone adhesive works pretty well.
 
roadifier":2lbd0hov said:
What do you use as tolex adhesive that works well? I heard the mojotone adhesive works pretty well.

I use the DAP non-flammable contact cement(green can, steer clear of the red, it's bad for you). Great stuff. I think the Mojo contact cement is the same thing in a different package.

You just need to be extra careful, since any pressure put on the two pieces(tolex to the wood) will make it adhere instantly. If you are easy on it, you can move it around a little then press it on. Hell if you mess up, just peel it away and add some more cement.
 
Capulin Overdrive":2r17xbst said:
i've built a few cabs without a tablesaw.


my advice is not to try unless you have a tablesaw.


even with the right tools, it's still no bargain.


hit Craigslist and get a used cab.

This...

I have all the correct tools, and have built plenty from scratch. You will spend less if you just buy a used cab off craigslist.

Plenty of recovering/build threads on here from Jim (Scumback) and myself.
 
so... its been a little while and i figured I'd update this....

my buddy owns a construction company and does custom build on the side. I showed him some "sketches" i had been working on for cab ideas and he flipped and is giving me free reign of the shop and his free assistance!!! so i'm pretty excited. I don't think I'm gonna wrap it cuz I'm gonna do hardwood. I think I'm gonna make the inside with a birch plywood, I'm gonna do the exterior in Purple Heart w/ ebony corners (kinda like bumpers to stick out further to protect the purple heart). Im thinking of doing a front load, maybe an X pattern on the speakers, and I've been toying with the idea of mounting a n e609 mic behind the grill and wiring it to the jack plate??? thought it be kool to have a cab w/ a built in mic.

Any thoughts or ideas would be awesome!!! thanks all :rock:
 
Ventura":1kxd0j1e said:
Capulin Overdrive":1kxd0j1e said:
i've built a few cabs without a tablesaw.


my advice is not to try unless you have a tablesaw.


even with the right tools, it's still no bargain.


hit Craigslist and get a used cab.
Agreed. I mean, unless you're DAMN good at wood work, joinery, and understanding the dynamics that go into a cab, they're far from just these "wooden boxes". I've done a lot of research as back in the day, I couldn't understand how on earth a wooden box with four holes would cost what it cost!?!? Fact is, manufacturers, the good ones, have really sized up the dynamics, and understood the best wood and joinery type to handle the - taaaa-daaaa - speakers. And then it's all about front load versus rear load. Then there's the baffle type. All this stuff may just fall into your lap on the first go round, but then it's the "worn in cabs sound better", and you may find that as yours gets worn in, it may start to sound horrible, or fall about, or hey, maybe sound better.

If you've got gobs of time to spare, than for sure, hit that shit. Go for it. But otherwise?? Time, effort and materials...man, I'd just go with a Port City or Mills Acoustics or the like.

Crazy as it sounds, there's more to 'em then just a box with 4 holes.

Peace,
V.

+2 having built 4 cabs myself (none were 412's) and if I had to do it over again, I would just buy the cabs. 3 of the 4 turned out great, but it was alot of work and they still don't look as good as a professionally built cab. They are also not worth anything to sell either, so I am kind of stuck with them at this point.

My other advice is make sure the cab you are basing your cab off is a good design. I copied a Marshall 1922 212 cab and that cab is poorly designed. Its a good idea if possible to try the cab you are looking at building before making your own version of it.
 
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