Just bought an Axefx III....SO

[roodboy]

Not sure if you bought new or used but if used do a factory reset to make sure there arent any nutty parameters in there
I would highly recommend the Rosh Roslin axefx basics series on youtube
its free and you can zoom in on particular parameters you want tweak
The ir thing can be a rabbit hole but try to keep it simple to start with just amp and cab
also use axe edit its easiest way to play around with unit
also update 33.01 firmware just dropped ans corrected a level issue in 33 may be a big help for your application

 

[Jeff Hilligan]

Not sure if you bought new or used but if used do a factory reset to make sure there arent any nutty parameters in there
I would highly recommend the Rosh Roslin axefx basics series on youtube
its free and you can zoom in on particular parameters you want tweak
The ir thing can be a rabbit hole but try to keep it simple to start with just amp and cab
also use axe edit its easiest way to play around with unit
also update 33.01 firmware just dropped ans corrected a level issue in 33 may be a big help for your application

Used...I got a great deal at 1450 I think! I want to do everything right upon receiving it as to not just give up and flip it!

 

[stratjacket]

Regarding IR’s, I really have 1 that I use 99% off the time. It’s a blend of 2 IR’s from Bogren. I agree with Corey that once you find one you like just stick with it like you would if you had a physical cab. For me there are just too many parameters from the guitar pickups through pedals, amps, reactive loads, effects, etc…so adding a million IR’s to switch between is too much.

I will say if I played out, I could see programming each song in a set that might have different IR’s. But just to play at home or with friends, keep it simple.

 

[chumbucket]

Used...I got a great deal at 1450 I think! I want to do everything right upon receiving it as to not just give up and flip it!

Is it a Mark I or II ?

 

[cardinal]

I bought a AFXIII just a few weeks ago.

1) I recommend using the editor from a laptop if you can. That's painless

2) Running with a power amp and cab is the easiest way to get results. The only "advanced" setting you might want to touch is to match the virtual impedance curve to the cab.

3) if you find yourself wanting to touch other advanced parameters, imho: STOP. Go get a beer or switch to a different amp model.

4) If going direct: find one single IR you like and just be done with it. I've used a single Ownhammer Marshall 1960 V30 impulse response for years. It just sounds like my 1960AV. So if it sounds good direct, I know it'll sound good through my cab. And if it sounds good through the cab, I know it'll sound good direct.

Find an amp sim you're familiar with and put the controls where you would with the amp. Then audition IRs until you get the sound you're expecting, and that's your keeper.

 

[fek]

This reminds me why I don't use modelers. I can't stop f'ing with them once I start.

What I would need is someone that knows what they are doing to sit with me and set up some core tones. From there I would have to constantly remind myself to not touch anything!

 

[S̷͖͑m̵͎͂á̵̺s̸͚̈́h̴̬̑]

This reminds me why I don't use modelers. I can't stop f'ing with them once I start.

What I would need is someone that knows what they are doing to sit with me and set up some core tones. From there I would have to constantly remind myself to not touch anything!

+1

I have had pros set up great presets for me on reaper only for me to somehow completely fuck them up or delete them

 

[rsm]

1) Start simple, with an amp and cab you know in the real world. If you are going into FRFR or studio monitors, not a power amp and guitar cab then:

2) Use one of the Fractal factory cabs, you don't need to mess with third-party IRs now.

That's a huge rabbit hole you don't need to bother with yet. (even then, I use factory cabs in my digital modeler; FWIW, I have a TC Electronic IR loader pedal that has several official Celestion IRs of speakers and cabs I use in or want to use in the real world. Celestion sells these IRs separately too. you buy one or however many you want.)

3) You can turn off the mics in the cab block to get it closer to sounding like an amp in the room.

4) Go into your cab block, and set your low cut and high cut.

Once you get it sounding good enough,

5) Go have a look at the settings on your input and output block; use Input 1. make adjustments, then go back and adjust / tweak your amp settings.

6) now you have a simple patch that models an amp and cab that sounds good to you.

Do another amp, or start exploring effects with your new amp-cab patch. Maybe make a copy of that am-cab only patch so you can start over again?

Modelers can be overwhelming with options and parameters if your try do do everything at once. methodical steps, and realistic rigs to start with before going crazy deep with multi amps, scenes, parallel routing, etc.,.

 

[mnemonic]

This reminds me why I don't use modelers. I can't stop f'ing with them once I start.

I was basically raised on modelers and I thought this was just how I was, constantly tweaking, until I had the means and space for tube amps.

Granted I haven’t tried an axe FX iii, maybe they’re better than the ii is.

 

[Fusionbear]

Thank you so much guys! I'm going to be using it pretty much for recording my music only. Pretty much producer mode. Finding what's best for a elite strat, tele, a P90, a mm 1400. Then I will have the four sounds in my head that I want in my music.

The Fractal platform is an awesome tool.

I never thought I would love it. I never feel I am compromising when I use my FM9T.
Guys have come up to me after most of my gigs asking me what amp I was using and where I hid it. They are always blown away that it's just the FM9T.

Check out Rosh Roslin's tutorials on YouTube.

He is the guy that I learned from. A total pro...

 

[cardinal]

These are my four main sounds. JTM45, Brit 2203, Brit 2203 boosted (NAM SD-1 capture), and Recto1 Red boosted (NAM OD808 capture). But I go back and forth with using USA IV Lead Bright Mid instead of boosted Recto1