
LP Freak
Well-known member
Is it on the 90w setting?
Vin Diezel":1arxl6t3 said:I do not play Mesa, but neither on the Diezels nor on the 6505 have I ever turned the gain past 2 or 3 o'clock.
Seems to be a strange amp.
maddnotez":1v2z5bd9 said:I have lowered the GEQ when I turn up but I can’t Lower the Treble because then it loses even more gain.
I’m using a Mills 212 with Eminence Legends, I will being trying my V30 412 tomorrow but other amps don’t do this with the 212.
I’ve tested both 100w and 60w settings.
Gain is pulled and high at like 4:00-5:00
PRES pushed and 1:00 or so
Treble 1:00
Mids 10:00-11:00
Bass zero
GEQ -V
Shred on
I have tested with different OD’s but not too much at high volume.
Does anyone know the definitions for all of the tube colors?
GJgo":1teou9j3 said:Check out my JP vids in my link below compared to the settings I'm using.
I'm thinking you might want to call Rich & send it in, after you're ruled a bad tube out.
Copied from other threads-
"I need an education on Mesas power tube color code system. From what I understand they rate from coldest to warmest in this order......
Red
Yellow
Green
Gray
Blue
White
So if I'm understanding this correctly, Red would give the most clean headroom while White would break up sooner. Which brings me to the question....will White bring up the bias and warm up the tone? Or does it just apply to headroom only?
The Reds and Yellows are so cold they may only draw between 15-20ma in a DR or any other 4 6L6 Mesa at -52V. The Green to White have higher natural plate current and draw more bias. They incrementally go up by a few MA's until you get to White. Even the white labels will usually only get you to 50-60 % MPD. More or less, they are safe to run in any Mesa. The only difference you will have to be careful is in Simul-Class amps. Both 6L6's and EL-34's above green may run too hot and wear quickly and die, or poof out. I have basically tried every Mesa color code with a Bias meter to see how they draw out."
Wizard of Ozz":1p344voj said:Reading back over this thread really makes me think something is up with the amp itself.
The JP2C is a GAIN MONSTER at all volumes. Yes, you need to back off the gain at higher levels, say over the 12:00 mark... but the tone should still hold up and be really tight and cutting... with tons and tons of gain. Almost too much dare I say. I rarely use the shred option just for that reason... the gain becomes almost uncontrollable... which is still really cool sounding. My JP2C has a boatload more preamp gain than my 2016 Bogner Uber Blue for reference.
The volume taper is really gradual and comes on slow at first, then quickly thereafter so that maybe something to think about. But after swapping tubes, if your are still not happy... return it for a new factory sealed unit. Sweetwater ships FedEx Ground and believe it or not I don't have the best luck with them and shipping amps. They like power-bombing amps on their side and hard... instead of laying them flat down.
mrhiwatt":1yh0lplt said:Reduce gain as you increase volume and turn shred off . Imho it helps at low volume and is over the top when real loud. In the mesa world lower bass as gain goes up. I always am around 1 out of 10. Triple and miss add gain in mesa tone stack.