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Which glue to use?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Geo
  • Start date Start date
Geo

Geo

Well-known member
Should I use a thin superglue or try to water down some wood glue?

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Ouch.... I see it
That's a very odd crack/split.
I would contact the company first (if you bought it new)
 
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Bought it cheap, just want to glue it up so it stays together.
 
Not sure how much I can get the crack open, do you think I should water down the wood glue?
I wouldn't. The crack goes past the E and A tuners. I would take those tuners off, gently open the crack with small steel wedges just enough to get glue all the way through the length of the crack. Then clamp it tight, wiping off the excess and let it dry for 24 hours. It will be stronger than the wood at that point.
 
Not sure how much I can get the crack open, do you think I should water down the wood glue?
Fold a pc of aluminum foil in half and work the glue in from both sides w/the syringe. You can pull sheets of foil through to spread the glue sometimes also - keep water handy b/c it's messy.
 
Not sure how much I can get the crack open, do you think I should water down the wood glue?
Nah. You can rub it in with your fingers. It doesn't stick to skin or finishes, only wood. Leave it clamped for at least 24 hours. There are epoxies that are stronger than Titebond, but harder to sand off and work overall.
 
Nah. You can rub it in with your fingers. It doesn't stick to skin or finishes, only wood. Leave it clamped for at least 24 hours. There are epoxies that are stronger than Titebond, but harder to sand off and work overall.
What if I used some thin superglue to get down in there and then rubbed in some wood glue?
 
No!
Titebond is what you need to use
No dilution
No mixing with other stuff.
It is made for wood and is more than strong enough for this job.
 
Nah. You can rub it in with your fingers. It doesn't stick to skin or finishes, only wood. Leave it clamped for at least 24 hours. There are epoxies that are stronger than Titebond, but harder to sand off and work overall.
No you can't. Well you can, but look at that crack. Rubbing it in without opening the crack and getting glue inside there ain't going to do shit except seal the opening of the crack.
 
No you can't. Well you can, but look at that crack. Rubbing it in without opening the crack and getting glue inside there ain't going to do shit except seal the opening of the crack.
My point was he shouldn't water down the glue, not open the crack. By all means, use a razor and open the crack. Working the glue in with your fingers is fine, use a syringe if you want. Opening and closing the crack a few times will help work the glue into the crack, just don't overdue it.
 
It's a closed crack, I don't think there will be any opening the crack.

Maybe I should drill a couple pin holes?
If you aren't going to get glue into the crack, especially where it's cracked all the way to the front by the veneer, you're just wasting your time bro. A luthier might even snap it all the way off to do the repair.
 
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I’d fill it with wood glue and clamp it. Then dowel it.
 
If you aren't going to get glue into the crack, especially where it's cracked all the way to the front by the veneer, you're just wasting your time bro. A luthier might even snap it all the way off to do the repair.
I am thinking about maybe drill 2 or 3 pin holes along the crack just big enough to get a syringe in there. Thoughts?
 
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