NAD-Wizard content

  • Thread starter Thread starter mctallica1
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Good advise. Bright at the back of amp on max. Or get them out of the circuit altogether. The amp gets much better
I would have never thought to do this, but WOW, do I like it! Definitely had to pull back on the Contour, but didn’t have to reduce Presence as much as I thought I would. Gives another level of clarity/punch/aggression. Thanks for the nudge!
 
Does anybody know what the Bright knob does on a technical level?

It is simply a traditional Bright control in parallel with the Gain knob, but instead of on a switch, it’s on a knob that slowly blends a bright cap in and out? Or is there something else going on entirely?
 
Does anybody know what the Bright knob does on a technical level?

It is simply a traditional Bright control in parallel with the Gain knob, but instead of on a switch, it’s on a knob that slowly blends a bright cap in and out? Or is there something else going on entirely?
Yes, it is something else entirely. At least on my MC1 and old Metal.
 
Does anybody know what the Bright knob does on a technical level?

It is simply a traditional Bright control in parallel with the Gain knob, but instead of on a switch, it’s on a knob that slowly blends a bright cap in and out? Or is there something else going on entirely?
It’s like a tone control on a guitar. Very simpel. And should be wired out
 
I bought that boost based on some of your comments here and it hasn’t left my board.


The Chiron is my favorite boost, never thought a klon would work for what I do but it definitely does, I get the klon hype now
 
It’s like a tone control on a guitar. Very simpel. And should be wired out

So you know for sure it's literally just a capacitor that's tapped into the main signal path, against which the Bright knob acts as a variable resistor between that capacitor and ground?

Because that's what a tone knob is. Are you saying it's specifically that, or could it work some other way?
 
So you know for sure it's literally just a capacitor that's tapped into the main signal path, against which the Bright knob acts as a variable resistor between that capacitor and ground?

Because that's what a tone knob is. Are you saying it's specifically that, or could it work some other way?
Yup. I know. There’s also schematics of the MTL and MC. And it’s the same on the hell razor
 
Yup. I know. There’s also schematics of the MTL and MC. And it’s the same on the hell razor

Oh cool, thanks!

From messing around with the Hell Razor, I’m guessing for its two Bright switches, one is before gain staging and the other works the same way but after gain staging? HR’s Bright 1 seems to do the same thing as the MC’s bright switch and change the feel of the gain, but HR’s Bright 2 feels more like it impacts the overall EQ signature.
 
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The MC1 and Metals are not that at all.
Wonder why they would be different. Care to share a pic?

Here’s a pic from a MTL - my old one

IMG_7326.png
 
Both of these are MC 1’s. Looks the same to me.
IMG_7328.png
 
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Wonder why they would be different. Care to share a pic?

Here’s a pic from a MTL - my old one

View attachment 460391
I don’t think I have a picture. Only ever have it open when putting in new tubes. It’s been awhile.
My new MCII40 is supposed to be delivered Tuesday. Rick said the Lead channel is supposed to be identical to the MC1. Will see.

My first Wizard was a ‘93 Metal which had a Bright control I liked. The original MC’s did not have the bright control. When talking him about building my MC1 (he wasn’t building amps at the time ‘04-05) I asked for the bright control among a few other things.
 
Is this the right photo? I don't think Wizard puts Bright knobs directly above or below any input/output jacks. That looks more like a Loop Return jack to me.
Mine is above the input jack, but it was made custom for me also.

IMG_2129.jpeg
 
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