New DSLs...

  • Thread starter Thread starter sideshowsmitty
  • Start date Start date
I got my DSL100HR last weekend and am loving it.

I kind of think it's a good idea to force us to pull the chassis for fuses. They don't blow for no reason, and you really shouldn't replace a blown fuse without tracking down its root cause. If you pull the chassis and see a charring on the PCB, you will know there's no point in replacing the fuse and that you have bigger issues to address first.
 
Shadsunscrash":b73m4y63 said:
Starman22":b73m4y63 said:
I had the 100HR for about 3 weeks. Sounded fantastic, clean loop, midi, headphone out, trs out. Sadly it blew up and then I realized it had no accessible ht fuse on the rear. I sent it back. Not going to have an amp that needs the chassis pulled from the headshell to change a fuse if a power tube blows.

I made this account just to tell you your a wanker.


:lol: :LOL:
 
Shadsunscrash":2l37l1be said:
Starman22":2l37l1be said:
I had the 100HR for about 3 weeks. Sounded fantastic, clean loop, midi, headphone out, trs out. Sadly it blew up and then I realized it had no accessible ht fuse on the rear. I sent it back. Not going to have an amp that needs the chassis pulled from the headshell to change a fuse if a power tube blows.

I made this account just to tell you your a wanker. I own the DSL100HR and its the best amp ive ever owned, and far from the most expensive. Just cause the High Tension fuse isnt on the back doesnt mean its hard to get to. .....wall of text....
You made an account here to call someone out on such a trivial thing? :confused:

You then didn't bother to notice that Starmann22 corrected himself 2 post later. :doh:

Way to splash in and welcome to Rig-Talk :aww:


Starman22":2l37l1be said:
guitarbilly74":2l37l1be said:
Starman22":2l37l1be said:
I had the 100HR for about 3 weeks. Sounded fantastic, clean loop, midi, headphone out, trs out. Sadly it blew up and then I realized it had no accessible ht fuse on the rear. I sent it back. Not going to have an amp that needs the chassis pulled from the headshell to change a fuse if a power tube blows.
the HT fuse is right under the power cable socket.... :confused:

Sorry just realized that it is integrated into the actual power cord socket. I’m used to the round cap fuses. My mistake.
 
When I see DSL thread, I add some live video my band playing DSL (100H - right guitar) and I thing it sounds pretty good. There was terrible acoustic itself but DSL was clear, tight, cutting. The other guitarist has Deliverance. My chain - Gibson LP - BKP Rebel Yell ->TS808->DSL->Bogner 412 Scumback J65 top (miced) V30 bottom.
 
I think the newer HR models are the best DSL yet, better than the old JCM2000 MIE models. Awesome price new, build quality is a non-surprising eh... but at that price they can be quickly replaced if something goes down on the road or whatever, or buy two to keep one as backup and still be much under a lot of other popular amps on the market.
 
mackzach":16p18ek7 said:
crankyrayhanky . . . your description of the midi implementation on the DSL 40CR is very helpful. My son just got an ES-8 effects switching system to pair with his DSL 40CR. Using your instructions/guidance, we have successfully sent PC values to switch between the Clean, Crunch, OD1, and OD2 channels. However, we have not been able to get the master volume select to toggle between 1 and 2. We have attempted to use CC=14 Value = 0 for Master 1 and CC=14 Value = 1 for Master 2. The midi implementation chart from the manual indicates that CC#14 is recognized by the amp for the "Master". It shows that: 0=Off; 1=On; and 2-127=Toggle State. I'm not sure I understand what is meant by "Toggle State". I'm new to midi controls, so any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Just need to get pointed in the right direction.


"Toggle State" means whichever master is selected, the other one will be selected when you send value 2-127. For example, if master 1 is active, you send value "2" then master 2 will become active. You send value "2" again, master 1 will become active etc. It can be useful if you want to configure one button of your midi controller as a volume boost. Push it -> boost, push it again -> back to normal.
 
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