Pup help.

VonBonfire said:
Does it still turn reasonably smoothly?

There is a def reason to sand the back of the pot plus use flux or you won't get a good solder joint. Don't feel bad if it's toast. I burnt up a couple concentrics not doing that and in not doing so I had to use too much heat and it fried the trace. Once you get past the learning curve it's not too tough. Sandpaper+flux=win
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Turns good. 👍 hotter than fuck….🤪🔥
 
that diagram you posted is that of one of the pickups ??? If so ...

where the hell did you solder the red and green wires to ..... if you're not using a push pull pot ???
 
Red and white I soldered together and taped off. Green and bare soldered together to the back of the volume. Black to toggle. How does this look?
IMG_4098.jpeg
 
If you overheat a pot you can fry the wiper ive done it.
If the pot has "deoxit" or similar inside and you heat it that can fry it too.
 
I literally just fixed this on a Les Paul. Someone put a Bill Lawrence in the bridge and a DiMarzio in the neck with a drop in LP wiring harness and messed it up. It ended up in my lap. The exact same problem.

JackBootedThug said:
No push pull. Straight volume and tone plus three way toggle.View attachment 399683
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The hot from the switch is going to ground on the tone pot. The ground from the switch is going to your volume pot. You have the switch backwards. This one is easy. The LP I just did had no slack, and I had to put a jumper on the grounds to reverse the switch,and I had to do it in that little round hole.

The two tabs that come together are the output. The solid base in the middle is the ground.
 
JackBootedThug said:
Thanks bezo! You the man!!! If I understand correctly I will switch them tomorrow….
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I see where the mistake was made with that switch. It's not your fault. You followed the diagram properly, and it should have worked. That switch is just goofy. Normally the switch has a hot side with the tabs in a "W" shape, and a ground on the other side. That switch has the ground in between the inputs for the leads, and the outputs come together isolated on the other side. I only figured it out by looking at the switch itself in the photo, basically locating where the tabs come out to figure out what is what. It's really the switch's fault.
 
BeZo said:
I see where the mistake was made with that switch. It's not your fault. You followed the diagram properly, and it should have worked. That switch is just goofy. Normally the switch has a hot side with the tabs in a "W" shape, and a ground on the other side. That switch has the ground in between the inputs for the leads, and the outputs come together isolated on the other side. I only figured it out by looking at the switch itself in the photo, basically locating where the tabs come out to figure out what is what. It's really the switch's fault.
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You were correct dude! That was the problem!
 
JackBootedThug said:
You were correct dude! That was the problem!
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Glad you got it running.

It's just weird that when you posted it I was in the middle of fixing the exact same issue. On that LP though, it's a regular switch with all the hots on one side, and they just put the grounds to the hot and the hot to the ground. I'm not proud of the jumper wire that I put in there, but it matched the wiring harness and solved the problem. It's just poorly soldered together given the conditions. But really what are the odds that we were both dealing with the same problem at the same time? Wild.
 
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