thegame
Well-known member
The chafing must have been quite painfulI also tried sealing up a cab or two over the years. It did make a small difference but not super noticeable.
The chafing must have been quite painfulI also tried sealing up a cab or two over the years. It did make a small difference but not super noticeable.
Do you have a name/link for that stuff? I've never seen weather stripping so thin, it's normally like 1/4".

This thread is one of the most overt examples of OS cabophobia I've ever seen. Due to your shaming of plus sized cabinetry, I'd go so far as to label most of you as Mesa Traditionalists. Mesa cabinets are toneful at any size. Selective Cabinetism hurts us all. Stop the hate.
Nylock?UPDATE
So, while I noticed zero change in sound with wiring witchcraft, I did notice an improvement by addressing how the speakers are mounted to the baffle.
Mesa doesn't use washers. They just ham-fist nuts onto the speaker frames with a drill. Here's what I did:
I placed the cab face-down on the ground, removed all the nuts, centered the speakers on the mounting bolts/posts so the posts don't make contact with the speaker frame, used SAE #8 washers, and re-torqued the nuts to 10 in/lbs. Then I replaced the rear panel while the cab was still flat on the ground so I could apply some body weight to it, sealing it up nice and tight.
I now have three new Traditional cabs here and compared side by side. It did make a difference. The low-end response improved a bit. It's subtle, but it's worth doing IMO. So I went ahead and did this some procedure to all three cabs. My theory is it helps couple the speakers to the baffle a little better... a little more consistently. And it prevents bending/dimpling the speaker frame.
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Well, it is The Rig Page.i hope this doesnt evolve into 10 lbs vs 11 lb tone fuckery
Dewalt Intervention. All jokes aside, please realize that V30s sound best adhered with Philips screws while Greenbacks and other vintage speakers require flathead ones to bring out their mojo. Pro tip, Robertson screw heads ruin tone.I get it being important not to have it flopping loose or crimped at the screw or nut, but i hope this doesnt evolve into 10 lbs vs 11 lb tone fuckery
I have never had trouble tightening the speakers to the right amount. I cant imagine needing a torque wrench. I work with tools every day and have built shit for 20 years. It is super intuitive.
I get it being important not to have it flopping loose or crimped at the screw or nut, but i hope this doesnt evolve into 10 lbs vs 11 lb tone fuckery
This thread is one of the most overt examples of OS cabophobia I've ever seen. Due to your shaming of plus sized cabinetry, I'd go so far as to label most of you as Mesa Traditionalists. Mesa cabinets are toneful at any size. Selective Cabinetism hurts us all. Stop the hate.
I know what a torque wrench is and what it is for. My point isn't that i can torque a motorcycle bolt or lug nut to the same amount all day, it is that working on a tiny screw or lug nut on a speaker is very easy to feel. If you are paying attention, you can feel when the speaker frame is tight or when it is bending. I use and impact to take out the run of the lug and then finish with a socket wrench. It is quite easy to feel when you get there, and really easy to feel when you go past the point of tight and start bending the framelol I'm not like that. I can't hear the difference between 10 AWG and 14 AWG or Brand X or Brand Y of wire inside a cab...
I wanted to be consistent because I'm testing different variables and I already have a torque wrench for lots of other things I work on. I also want to avoid deforming the speakers by going hog wild with a drill. That torque value seemed reasonable for the type of hardware used in the cab.
How a speaker is coupled to a baffle does matter. You can test this in many different ways, but grab a Bluetooth speaker and place it on different surfaces. A granite countertop, a wooden desk, the floor, holding it in the air, etc. Press the speaker down with various amounts of force. The sound absolutely changes.
I work on other things that require very specific, repeatable torque settings. Like 60 in/lb vs 65 in/lb. or 18 vs 22. I've never met anybody who could do that by feel or by "intuition". But hey, if you're that good, I'm impressed. I'm sure Lockheed or Siemens or an F1 team would love to hire someone with your ability.
The more people hate OS cabs, the better. I love them and I'm still looking for a old straight/slant one from the '90s. I cannot find one at a decent price no matter how hard I look around.
A few decades of standing next to a china cymbal negates all these subtleties, brothers.