Mesa 4x12 Wiring: Before and After

  • Thread starter Thread starter FourT6and2
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I work with my hands every day and use torque wrenches all the time for work. I always find it more difficult to tell a fasteners tightening torque when when the nut has a locking feature, no matter the size, as well as going against something that can bend easy and the give of the gasket. Always a good idea to make sure all the fasteners used are torqued to equal same amounts and using a torque wrench just takes all the guess work out of it.
 
Agree torquing with proper tool is always better in general; on a simple fastening like guitar speakers stuff, it usually is just fine to do it by hand also IMHO. First checking speaker frame and fasteners / inserts are all clean and in good shape / straight; make the screws come in contact with the frame, then gently tighten by hand, going one screw & one 1/4 turn at a time in an "X" alternate fashion, same amount of few 1/4 turns by screw total max, stop before you feel the need to force too much.. done.
Challenge can often come from older speakers / fasteners, that are not in top shape and don't allow for smooth fastening; still can be an issue with torque wrench also, as you sometime need to "overcome" some hard point when screwing down if one screw / insert is slightly damaged for ex.
 
You can make it up to me and the forum by coming down to the blues jam on sunday. :yes:
You wouldn't like that. I am taking out my frustration at work on everyone around me (aside from my kids)
 
I think i am being skeptical more than closeminded. But I am being antagonistic. I apologize. I can be an asshole sometimes

Skepticism is great. I love skepticism. Skepticism is exactly why I'm so OCD about stuff like this sometimes. I used a torque wrench to be more consistent and eliminate that as a variable. I'm not telling people they need to use a torque wrench. :)
 
A few years ago, I went down a bit of a rabbit hole trying different speaker cables.
From 16 awg to 12 awg
From from standard zip cord to high end stupid expensive.
It's near impossible to tell the differences from one to the other based on just memory and time it takes to switch between different cables.
So, I started recording short clips between them.
Listening back to the cips I could definitely hear a difference but it wasn't extreme.
I started reading high fi audio forums and decided to try Belden 9497 after quite a few positive reviews.
To my ears, the Beldon sounded the best (even though it was only 16 awg)
Better detailed mids and high end clarity.
I went ahead and re-wired all my cabs with it, and have been completely satisfied.
Hear is a photo of an 80's Marshall JCM 800 I re-wired with Belden 9497.

AP1GczOJ6z1-KT9PIO4LaCcQR9HfsaVEvQsAHyqviYfhK8UtcQq29dcXSIE_DyCSJBcQPrY2OLSzeC7-ycd9dbW4wMQ3PUX2G1huW3nzdYNZCyjEcL5I73U18MrJvPdHJYRZF1TG7CKktEMFCDVv6-1taGUChg=w1233-h948-s-no-gm
 
A few years ago, I went down a bit of a rabbit hole trying different speaker cables.
From 16 awg to 12 awg
From from standard zip cord to high end stupid expensive.
It's near impossible to tell the differences from one to the other based on just memory and time it takes to switch between different cables.
So, I started recording short clips between them.
Listening back to the cips I could definitely hear a difference but it wasn't extreme.
I started reading high fi audio forums and decided to try Belden 9497 after quite a few positive reviews.
To my ears, the Beldon sounded the best (even though it was only 16 awg)
Better detailed mids and high end clarity.
I went ahead and re-wired all my cabs with it, and have been completely satisfied.
Hear is a photo of an 80's Marshall JCM 800 I re-wired with Belden 9497.

AP1GczOJ6z1-KT9PIO4LaCcQR9HfsaVEvQsAHyqviYfhK8UtcQq29dcXSIE_DyCSJBcQPrY2OLSzeC7-ycd9dbW4wMQ3PUX2G1huW3nzdYNZCyjEcL5I73U18MrJvPdHJYRZF1TG7CKktEMFCDVv6-1taGUChg=w1233-h948-s-no-gm
Any chance you tried rewiring it with the same wire type multiple times to see if there was any variance there?
 
A few years ago, I went down a bit of a rabbit hole trying different speaker cables.
From 16 awg to 12 awg
From from standard zip cord to high end stupid expensive.
It's near impossible to tell the differences from one to the other based on just memory and time it takes to switch between different cables.
So, I started recording short clips between them.
Listening back to the cips I could definitely hear a difference but it wasn't extreme.
I started reading high fi audio forums and decided to try Belden 9497 after quite a few positive reviews.
To my ears, the Beldon sounded the best (even though it was only 16 awg)
Better detailed mids and high end clarity.
I went ahead and re-wired all my cabs with it, and have been completely satisfied.
Hear is a photo of an 80's Marshall JCM 800 I re-wired with Belden 9497.

AP1GczOJ6z1-KT9PIO4LaCcQR9HfsaVEvQsAHyqviYfhK8UtcQq29dcXSIE_DyCSJBcQPrY2OLSzeC7-ycd9dbW4wMQ3PUX2G1huW3nzdYNZCyjEcL5I73U18MrJvPdHJYRZF1TG7CKktEMFCDVv6-1taGUChg=w1233-h948-s-no-gm
Did you happen to try the Sound Runner 10 ga.?
 
Not clear on your question
To rephrase: did you perform tests to eliminate the possibility that the differences came from variations in harness assembly, mic'ing, playing, wall voltage, etc.?
 
Ever played Bogner cabs?
Owned a few Bogner cabs.
The wire Reinhold used was just silly overkill IMHO
To rephrase: did you perform tests to eliminate the possibility that the differences came from variations in harness assembly, mic'ing, playing, wall voltage, etc.?
Same cab - mic position was the same - amp was the same, etc..... the only variable was the different wire
 
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Same cab - mic position was the same - amp was the same, etc..... the only variable was the different wire
Thanks. For the mic, did you have to reposition the mic each time you finished re-wiring the speakers? Did you make sure you tightened the back-panel screws the same each time? For the harnesses, how did you make sure they were all exactly the same in terms of cable length, twists, etc.? For playing, did you re-amp/use a looper, or just play it yourself each time?
 
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